Stop Using Vodka!
Did you know that the US Dept. of Alcohol, Tobacco & Firearms (27 CFR PART 21) prohibits the use of vodka and other intoxicating spirits as an ingredient in body care products without a permit?
Snowdrift Farm's Perfumer's Alcohol and Formulator's Alcohol are proprietary blends of SD40B alcohol and other ingredients approved and permitted by the US Dept. of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms.
What's the difference between Perfumer's Alcohol and Formulator's Alcohol?
Perfumer's Alcohol is designed specifically for the production of perfumes. It is designed for direct skin contact in a perfume. It contains SD40B Alcohol, isopropyl myristate and isopropyl alcohol. Isopropyl myristate is added to act as a fixative because it is a light wax that readily penetrates and carries and holds the essential oils. No water should be added because the isopropyl myristate will separate out. Essential oils should be added slowly and mixed well.
Do not proceed until each addition of oil is completely dissolved. Some resins may take overnight or longer. Perfumer's alcohol may also be used in self preserving lotions and emulsified products. it should be added to the water phase prior to preparing the lotion. Expect a milky liquid which emulsifies into the lotion with the rest of the oils. Do not dilute below 20 % alcohol. This will ensure that your product is preserved against microbial growth.
Formulator's Alcohol is designed for use with products that require the addition of water. These include colognes, aftershave, hair spray, linen sprays, hand sanitizers, astringents and self-preserving lotions. Formulator's alcohol contains SD40B alcohol, propylene glycol and isopropyl alcohol.
Clear products may be made using this technique. Dissolve the essential oils and other oil soluble materials in the Formulator's alcohol. Dissolve the water soluble components like soy quat or silk in the water. Add a small amount of water and mix until dissolved and solution is clear before adding more water. If the mixture becomes hazy and refuses to clear add a small amount of alcohol and allow it to stand for a few days. Do not dilute below 20 % alcohol. This will ensure that your product is preserved against microbial growth.
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Percentage of Fragrance Required to Make Perfume, Cologne, Eau de Toilette, Eau de Cologne, AfterShave
How to Blend Essential Oils
A discussion about making perfuming might start with the consideration of essential oils. In order to bring some sense to the puzzle, parfumiers usually sort essential oils according to their "weight" within a formula. Thus, oils may be high or top notes, middle or heart notes, bottom or base notes.
| Top Note |
Middle Note |
Bottom Note |
| Lemon, Orange, Grapefruit, Lime, Bergamot, Spearmint, peppermint
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Coriander, Palmarosa, Marjoram, Basil, Rosemary, Rose Geranium, Pettitgrain, Lavender |
Patchouli, Vetiver, Frankincense, Cedarwood, Sandalwood
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Note: this table is not exhaustive. Some oils may share characteristics common to more than one note type.
Another important group of oils are those that bridge or sustain a blend. Instead of acting as a top, middle or bottom note, sustaining notes such as litsea cubeba, lemongrass, lavender and ylang ylang lend themselves to creating harmony within the blend.
Prepare your essential oil blends in clear glass beakers or vials so you can observe and smell at the same time. You can transfer into UV resistant glass when you are ready to begin the aging process.
Write down each new addition to your essential oil blend. Some parfumiers create a base they use as a springboard, adding new essential oils to it to create each new perfume. Writing down your recipe is a great habit and will save you time, money and effort in the long run.
Once you are satisifed with your blend, transfer it to a cobalt blue or amber glass bottle and cap tightly. Visit with your perfume every 2-3 days. Rather than inhaling directly, uncap and "waft" the scent by creating a breeze with your fingers over the top of the container. This will carry the scent molecules to your nostrils. If you decide to add more essential oil or introduce a new essential oil to the existing blend, you should add time to your process so that all of the oils will be able to mix and meld together. Generally, this will take about 2-3 weeks from the date of the last addition.
Once your perfume has completed aging and the scent molecules have intermingled and married to your happiness, it is time to dilute. If you are considering making perfumes or colognes, please visit our blending page.
You may also choose to dilute with a vegetable oil such as jojoba or fractionated coconut for use as a perfume, massage or bath oil.
Here are two non-alcohol based perfume recipes for your consideration:
Glace de Perfum
An excellent carrier for scent, this formula is rich,
yet sinks right into the skin, leaving NO greasy after-feel.
Ingredients List
- Beeswax, white or yellow 5 grams
Carnauba wax 4 grams
Fractionated Coconut 50 g
Mango butter 5 grams
20-25 drops essential oil or fragrance blend
Vitamin E , natural, 10 drops
Combine waxes in a microwave proof bowl and heat in microwave for 2-3 mins. on 50% power,
till all waxes are melted and fluid. Stir. Addmango butter, fractionated coconut and stir.
Heat for 20-30 seconds on 50% power, or until all is fluid. Stir. Add vit e and scent. Stir.
Pour into waiting tins or tubes. Allow to cool thoroughly before capping. Yield: approx. 2.5 ounces.
Perfume Oil Dry Spray
Dries upon contact. This spray recipe can be used with any essential oil blend. May also be used as an after bath spray.
15 ml Cyclomethicone
20 drops sandalwood
16 drops Ylang Ylang III or extra
10 drops Bergamot
Mix well and place in a pretty perfume spray bottle.
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